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A Serious Ocean
You know it by the northern look of the shore,
by the salt-worried faces,
by an absence of trees, an abundance of lighthouses.
It's a serious ocean.
North Sea off Carnoustie by Anne Stevenson
Tomorrow will have an island
by William Stafford
Tomorrow will have an island. Before night
I always find it. Then on to the next island.
These places hidden in the day separate
and come forward if you beckon.
But you have to know they are there before they exist.
Some time there will be a tomorrow without any island,
So far, I haven't let that happen, but after
I'm gone others may become faithless and careless.
Before them will tumble the wide unbroken sea,
and without any hope they will stare at the horizon.
So to you, Friend, I confide my secret:
to be a discoverer you hold close whatever
you find, and after a while you decide
what it is. Then, secure in where you have been,
you turn to the open sea and let go.
The Poet's Obligation
by Pablo Neruda
To whoever is not listening to the sea
this Friday morning, to who ever is cooped up
in house or office, factory or woman
or street or mine or dry prison cell,
to him I come, and without speaking or looking
I arrive and open the door of his prison,
and a vibration starts up, vague and insistent,
a long rumble of thunder adds itself
to the weigh of the planet and the foam,
the groaning rivers of the ocean rise,
the star vibrates quickly in its corona
and the sea beats, dies, and goes on beating.
So. Drawn on by my destiny,
I ceaselessly must listen to and keep
the sea's lamenting in my consciousness,
I must feel the crash of the hard water
and gather it up in a perpetual cup
so that, wherever those in prison may be,
wherever they suffer the sentence of the autumn,
I may be present with an errant wave,
I may move in and out of the windows,
and hearing me, eyes may lift themselves,
asking "How can I reach the sea?"
And I will pass to them, saying nothing,
the starry echoes of the wave,
a breaking up of foam and quicksand,
a rustling of salt withdrawing itself,
the gray cry of sea birds on the coast.
So, though me, freedom and the sea
will call in answer to the shrouded heart.
See you at the Miami
Boat Show on Friday, February 15 for my full-day seminar,
"Ocean Voyaging Strategies"
Schedule is posted now!
SAILING TO THE EDGE OF TIME: The Promise, the Challenges, and the Freedom of Ocean Voyaging
My latest book is available now. You can order an autographed copy from my online store.
Thank you for venturing into the far flung world of John Kretschmer
Sailing. If this is your first time, welcome, otherwise many thanks
for dropping by again. I am not very reliable when it comes to
updating this site, and yes that's an understatement but
my excuse is that we spend most of our time at sea. We just keep
sailing - crossing oceans, exploring coasts and islands. 2019
is just over the horizon. It was more than 34 years ago that we
beat around Cape Horn in the brave little sloop Gigi,
it seems hard to believe. Two summers ago I was able to sail Gigi
again in the rugged Outer Hebrides of Scotland. That was a magical
experience. Gigi is a time machine. The experience frames
the first chapter of my new book, SAILING TO THE EDGE OF TIME:
The Promise, the Challenges, and the Freedom of Ocean Voyaging,
which will be published, at last, on November 13, 2018. This is
the book I've been writing my entire life, a memoir that
is a mix of sea stories and sailing insights, it's a deeply
personal account of what it means to go to sea. If you would like
a signed copy you can purchase the book in the website store and
it will be shipped starting November 23, 2018, in plenty of time
for the holidays.
I have been sailing professionally, if that's what you call what
I do, for all of my adult life. I confess, doing the thing I enjoy
most has never felt like a job and I have lost track of how many
offshore miles I've logged. This summer I completed my 25th and
26th Atlantic crossings. When my sailing odometer ticked over
300,000 I stopped counting. It seems absurd to keep tallying miles,
I have nothing to prove and I am not convinced that miles matter
very much. They define sailing as the distance between landfalls,
as if land's edge defines the ocean and our relationship with
it. That's crazy, it's the in-between that matters, the voyage,
the journey, the interlude of being "at sea," that's
where the magic lurks.
What amazes me is that I am more passionate about what I do
than ever before. I think I am old enough and maybe wise enough
finally, to realize that I have a great gig. I love being aboard
Quetzal, driving her through whatever conditions come our
way. I am also enjoying the charter passages we organize as we
explore some of the most beautiful watery destinations on the
planet at a more relaxed pace. But really, it's all about
you. The folks who track me down and sign aboard are always intriguing,
they get it, they know that sea time is valuable and we usually
end up becoming fast friends and frequent shipmates. I remain
devoted to providing unique, honest and challenging sailing and
travel opportunities for my clients.
I am also committed to sharing useful information and hard-won
opinions about blue water and coastal voyaging, and more to the
point in these interesting times, living life on your own terms.
Deep ocean sailing in small boats, and at 47 feet, Quetzal
still qualifies as a small boat, offers a powerful blend of, as
my new book's subtitle claims, promise, challenge and freedom.
Joseph Conrad titled his sailing ship memoir, "The Mirror
of the Ocean," and I love that phrase. There is nowhere to
hide at sea and the image that reflects back at you from the face
of a steel blue wave is brutally honest. To thrive at sea you
must take stock of who you are, not who you want to be. There's
no pretending out there.
Our offshore passages are rarely easy and at times downright miserable,
they're all too real. And they're rewarding. The people that sail
with me buy, sell, invent, teach, build, cure, protect, in short
- they shake the world when ashore. But at sea, aboard Quetzal,
they feel refreshingly small and profoundly alive. Time slows
down at sea and somehow matters more, and what can be more important
than managing your allotment of time?
I began my book, Flirting With Mermaids, "I make landfalls
for a living." It's a good line but as I get older I have
come to realize that making landfalls is easy. Making departures,
pushing off the dock, unplugging the electronic handcuffs, subverting
the shore-side guilt, that's the hard part. And that's where I
can help. Take a good look at the site: the schedule of training
passages, the workshops, the pictures, videos, books and even
the poems, then send me an email. Let's communicate. Sailing dreams
are too important to leave for another day. The 2020
Schedule has just been posted. It's time, time to go sailing,
time to go to sea and I look forward to welcoming you aboard Quetzal.
Looking Back - Looking Ahead
I am writing from Quetzal's main saloon, which,
I am proud to say looks better than ever, and life aboard is quite
pleasant. We just arrived in Lagos, Portugal after a challenging
passage from Ireland. We leave for the Canary Islands in a few
weeks, wrapping up the 2018 season. This was a busy year for Quetzal
and her skipper. Since I last updated the site, I've logged
around 15,000 miles including a training passage from Hawaii to
Anacortes, Washington last July aboard Lady B, a Hylas
49 sloop. This year, we sailed Smoke and Mirrors, a Tayana
48 from Bermuda to Portugal. Quetzal made her seventh crossing,
from Solomons, Maryland to Crosshaven, Ireland.
noted above the 2020
Schedule is now posted. In addition to sailing passages, it
includes two Caribbean Cruising OnSite Workshops
and one How to Cross the Atlantic Workshop in
the Azores. These workshops, in Antigua, Grenada, and Horta, are
unique, great learning opportunities and a lot of fun. We are
really excited about this new format and for more information,
see below. We have also scheduled another "Med Summer",
which includes sailing in Croatia, along the dramatic Amalfi coast
of Italy, and the beautiful islands of Corsica and Sardinia. We
will also be sailing in the Azores, the fabled Atlantic Island
Waypoints, and this Azores Cruising includes
cruising to several islands and two overnight passages. We have
two French Canal Boat Trips scheduled in September
and three October workshops at Spring Cove Marina in Solomons,
MD, just south of Annapolis. A Strong Wind Offshore Passage,
the Caribbean Triangle Passage from Grenada to
Puerto Rico and then to Bonaire, is scheduled for early December.
As always, many thanks to you, our shipmates and friends, you
make all of our voyages and projects possible.
year Tadji and I launched a new venture, the onsite workshop.
It was a great success. We held the first one, in English Harbor,
Antigua. It focused on every aspect of Caribbean cruising. We
discussed cruising boats and how to outfit them, how and when
to make the offshore passage to and from the Eastern Caribbean,
and strategies for exploring the islands. We looked at heavy weather,
security, provisioning, and a host of other topics. The format
included two days of classroom work in a lovely setting at the
Admiral's Inn. We then spent two full days on Quetzal.
These day sails included heavy weather techniques, anchoring,
man overboard, using the Hydrovane, steering in big seas, and
setting the whisker pole. We returned to English Harbor each night
and everyone enjoyed the accommodations at the Admiral's
The second OnSite workshop, How to Cross the Atlantic, took place
in Horta, on the island of Faial in the Azores. The setting was
magical, as the Club Naval made a classroom available next to
the marina and across from Cafe Sport. The accommodations were
at the Pousada, an old fort converted to beautiful hotel that
overlooked the marina. We discussed every aspect of crossing the
Atlantic, including boats, gear, routes, weather, etc. Again we
had two classroom days and two long sailing days. Each evening
we had a wonderful meal at a different restaurant.
For 2020 we have expanded the Onsite Workshop format by one day,
adding a third day of sailing. The price is based on double occupancy
but single options are also available. It includes everything
except airfare and transfers.
French Canal Boat Trips 2019-2020
Our canal boat business is growing steadily and Tadji and
I are offering two more trips in 2019 and 2020. We
charter 50' canal boats that I skipper. Tadji does all the
real work, organizing the trip, planning the route and
most importantly, the gourmet cooking. I am in charge of
the wine and we never run out. We have bikes for each
person and there's plenty of opportunity to ride along the
canal or into nearby villages. The trips are relaxing and
great fun. Email Tadji using the contact form at
travelswithtadji.com for more information.
Offshore Training passages are the heart and soul of John Kretschmer
Sailing. These trips are unique and so are the people who find their
way aboard. I am not a sailing school, there are plenty of those
around and many do a fine job of teaching offshore sailing skills.
What we do is different. We make passages, we make voyages. They're
real, sometimes all too real, you are part of the crew. Each passage
is comprised of crew-members with varying levels of experience and
we learn from each other. I learn something new on every trip. And
you learn by doing, life aboard Quetzal is the epitome of
'hands on' training. You will stand watch in fair weather and foul.
You will reef the main when it's blowing, maybe even blowing a gale.
You will help with repairs, meals, and the dishes. You will revel
in landfalls, especially because everyone shares the navigational
responsibilities. There is nothing like navigating when it really
counts to instill confidence. You can draw as much from a passage
as you're willing to put into it. You may master celestial navigation
and you may learn to bake bread. Or you may be more interested in
learning how to pace yourself through a long voyage. Passage making
requires a mix of philosophy and skills. And one thing I know from
experience, you will have a lot of fun and laughs and make profound
friendships. But don't take my word for it; listen to some of the
folks who have completed passages aboard Quetzal:
Rob Schlosser: "Hi John, I really wanted to thank you again
for the great sailing experience and for the wonderful trip to
the Bahamas last month! The two trips that I have taken with you
have done a tremendous amount to bolster the confidence I have
in myself, as a sailor and otherwise. And the difference in Patty
is truly amazing. She has gone from being scared to even talk
about sailing to planning our next trip. And eventually even trying
to sail full time for two or three years! I wish I had a million
dollars to send you to show my appreciation, but alas, all I have
are these few words of appreciation. I hope you will accept them
for what they are, heartfelt appreciation."
Dirk de Haan, Corpus Christi, Texas: "Susan and I had a great
time, I know you know. You've seen the picture of her with Lady
Liberty. Wow, what a fantastic trip THAT was. So nice to be able
to do. It was really something, also, for our son Dirk, who sailed
with us, because he had never seen Manhattan. The time of day
we would arrive there, and the tides were all in our favor, coming
in with the rising tide and leaving through East River on a falling
tide. That canyon, by the way, can pack some serious winds. 20
knots, on a quiet, foggy day. Wow. Sailing Long Island Sound was
very beautiful. What great scenery!! Entering Newport as well.
There I took over the helm form Susan to do a lap in Newport Harbor.
It was my 'victory lap,' a closing circle of sorts, since I started
there with you on Quetzal. I will always remember that,
and be grateful for your teachings and coaching."
Jerry Polly, Madison, Wisconsin: "I would highly recommend a passage
with John. I have done two. One from Key West to Isla Mujures
and back and one from Bermuda to Newport. He is absolutely skilled
in every conceivable way with respect to sailing. He takes safety
very seriously but expects you to know your way around a boat.
He does not mother the crew by telling them how to do everything.
He is congenial all the time, almost to a fault. John is good
humored, flexible, a great story teller, somewhat of an entertainer.
You will have great fun with him. You will be left with other
crew members on watch and it will be your job to make that work;
he does not really referee, nor should he. You can pull as much
learning as you want from John. He will not push it on you; ask
and he will talk. Be quiet and enjoy the sea, and he will as well."
Barry Chessick, Chicago, Illinois: "I sailed with John from Annapolis
to Antigua, a passage of 1500 miles that took ten days. For me,
it was an experience of a lifetime. Besides bonding a lifetime
friendship with John, a truly unique, capable and magnificent
individual, the sights, scents, sounds of being 500 miles offshore
are tattooed on my psyche forever. I experienced all the delights
I had only read about before: the night sky glowing with millions
of stars, dolphins playing, awesome sunsets and sunrises. Was
it worth the cost? For me, and the memories that it brought, it
was worth many times the cost, of course I wouldn't tell John
Joanne Matthews, Pensacola, Florida: "Regarding a long ocean passage
on Quetzal with John as skipper? I can say without a
doubt - go for it. We met John at a book signing a few years back
and then signed aboard for a passage from Annapolis to Antigua.
There were four crew members and we all got along wonderfully.
A highlight was Thanksgiving dinner, complete with all the trimmings,
hundreds of miles from land. A couple of topics, politics and
religion, were not discussed, but otherwise everything was on
the table: books, boats, weather, sailing, cruising, travel, relationships.
We laughed for 1500 miles over his crazy sailing adventures. He
is clearly the captain but we all shared equally the shipboard
duties. I have not doubt that in a time of distress, he would
maintain a clear head. He also truly enjoys sharing his knowledge,
stories, and love for the sea. He's an avid reader, and unfortunately,
also sings on watch."
Gordon House, Kansas City, Missouri: "Considering a trip with
John? Bottom line, GO FOR IT! A passage with JK may be the high
point of your life, not to mention that it will make you the star
of all the cocktail parties for years to come. John is an excellent
skipper and has the uncanny ability to magically appear on deck
just when you need him to assess a situation that you may be unsure
of. You will never hear him raise his voice, even during the most
Amy Stapleton, Huntsville, Alabama: "Before sailing with John,
I'd never been on an offshore passage or sailed overnight. I wasn't
sure I'd like going offshore, but my first passage on Quetzal
sailing from St. Pete to the Dry Tortugas exceeded all my expectations.
It was an awesome experience and although it was challenging,
John made me feel very comfortable. He's also a great story teller
and provides for lots of entertainment. These passages are not
comfort cruises. They are hard work, but for me they have been
a great confidence builder and have helped me get a lot closer
to my personal sailing goals."
Ron Sorenson: "Sailing with John on one of his passages is simply
a great open water learning experience. I've been on two trips
so far (with more to come), and both were on Quetzal,
John's boat. One was from Panama to Florida, the other was a Trans-Atlantic,
and both were great. The Panama to Florida Trip was very relaxing.
For me, the trans-Atlantic was the best. It gave me an outstanding
exposure to open water sailing and what that can entail in both
good and bad weather conditions. John's experience showed when
we had some rough seas and his concern with the crew's safety
was readily apparent.
John promotes a relaxed atmosphere on his passages. There's no
rigid daily lesson plan that one must follow but there are learning
opportunities galore. John works to make everyone feel that they
are part of the crew and spends time with each person answering
questions or helping them bone up on their navigational skills.
And when he's not answering questions from the crew, John has
terrific stories that he loves to share.
Lastly, sailing on Quetzal in the Atlantic during a heavy
weather period proved to me just how safe and solid that boat
is. She is truly passage proven. And I understand now why John
is so fond of her."
James Leonard: "I've sailed with John on two different passages.
Both involved some rather 'nasty' weather. Besides learning navigation,
seamanship, problem solving and how to fix things, I gained a
confidence from John that you won't get in a lot of other 'sailing
He's a pretty good cook and he tells a great story.
I look forward to going out with him again."
Rick Thomson: "I have known John Kretschmer for several years
and in that time, we have sailed many nautical miles together!
We have sailed in Greece, Tahiti, Australia, Thailand, the Caribbean,
the Pacific Ocean, Chesapeake Bay, and have crossed the Atlantic
Ocean. We have been becalmed, knocked down, broken down, braved
storms in winds of 60-plus miles per hour, but we have also witnessed
unbelievable sunsets, breaching whales, green sea turtles, dancing
dolphins, deep blue oceans, and brilliant white beaches, not to
mention the beauty of the galaxies, moonlight on the water and
That being said, I feel totally at ease when sailing with John.
John is the ultimate sailor. When the going gets tough, John can
cowboy-up, or I guess I should say sailor-up. I've never personally
known anyone physically stronger or more determined to achieve
his objective. John totally immerses himself in the sailing environment.
Celestial navigation, course plotting, and understanding charts
are second nature to him. John is perfectly at home on any vessel.
He knows boats and what to expect from them. He's a sailor's sailor!
On the personal side, John is the most personable guy I know.
I have always said, "If you can't get along with John, you probably
aren't going to get along with anyone." He is also an outstanding
cook. I have seen John cook delicious hot meals in very rough
conditions, when other skippers would be handing out peanut butter
and jelly sandwiches. You must try his Mayan spaghetti!
Captain John Kretschmer is truly a one-of-a-kind sailor, who will
show you a journey that you will share with others for the rest
of your life."
George Archibald, Commodore of the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron:
"Hi John. Just wanted to thank you again for coming to RNSYS last
Saturday. For the last week everyone who attended has been singing
your praises.You were a great sport to drop in for our special
night. I have been watching the weather and wondering if you got
away, if you did I hope it has been better than the weather ashore.
All the best, George"
|Two new trips have been added for 2019: Trans Caribe 3 and Adriatic/ Ionian Passage. for details.